Credits: www.serendipitydiamonds.com
Diamonds are wonderful stones!
They are magnetic, hypnotic and magical. Before reaching the window of your favorite jewelry store, they have made an incredible journey …
DIAMOND FORMATION AND HISTORICAL INFO
Diamonds are made of carbon atoms, which crystallized under conditions of extreme pressure (45,000 times greater than at sea level) and heat (about 1150 ° C), at a depth of 150-200 km. Rough diamonds remained hidden in the depths of the Earth for hundreds of millions years, until volcanic explosions transported them to the Earth’s surface, mixed with magma.
Vertical kimberlite pipes are what remains of these ancient volcanoes.
Over time, several erosions have freed rough diamonds from their host rock and transported them by rivers, far from the place they originally formed.
Until the end of 1800s, diamonds were mainly found in these alluvial beds. Nowadays, most diamonds are found in kimberlite pipes. In 1869 kimberlite pipes were discovered in South Africa, marking the beginning of the modern diamond industry.
Technology advanced and in 1970 General Electric created the first diamond in a laboratory.
Diamonds are mined mostly in Russia, Sud Africa, Botswana, DR Congo, Angola, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Sierra Leone, Canada, Brasile, Australia, India.
The diamond is the hardest mineral known and occupies the first place on the Mohs scale, which determines the degree of hardness of the stones. In fact, you need a diamond in order to scratch another diamond’s surface.
It takes 1 to 3.3 billion years for a diamond to form naturally (ie, underground and not in a laboratory). Let’s put things into perspective: the Earth is 4.5 billion years old and the dinosaurs went extinct 65 million years ago. So it’s exciting to think that when the most recent diamonds were formed, dinosaurs were still walking on Earth!
Due to the difficult conditions endured and its long journey, diamonds have earned the name “adamas”, which means “the invincible” in Greek. These characteristics make it the most suitable gem to represent pure, strong and everlasting love.
Ancient Greeks believed that diamonds were the tears of the gods precipitated on Earth and that Cupid – god of Love – used arrows whose tips were precisely made of diamond.
Hence, the link between diamonds and love goes way back in time and is full of charm.
THE 4 C
Since diamonds are undoubtedly an important expense, it is advisable that you are educated about this subject and that you know what you are paying for.
In order to help people interested in diamonds, the American Gemological Institute (GIA) has drawn up diamond evaluation parameters. This system is universally known among professionals and simple enthusiasts with the expression “the 4Cs”.
The famous expression “4Cs” stands for CARAT, CLARITY COLOR, CUT, which are fundamental basis to evaluate the quality of a diamond.
I assure you that it will be worth studying them: as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) rightly claims, the categorizations of the 4Cs are “the universal language to describe the quality of a diamond”. This study will give you more self-confidence and will help you to prioritize the aspects that are most symbolic and interesting for you.
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
Each C has its own importance and contributes to the overall appearance of the diamond. Decide which one is most important to you so you know where to focus your shopping.
Credits: www.capetowndiamondmuseum.org
1_CARAT
The carat (abbreviated “ct”) is the unit of measurement of the diamond weight.
The word “carat” derives from the carob seeds which in ancient times, during measurements of precious stones, were used as a counterweight in scales because their weight is uniform and almost invariable.
One carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams and is divided into 100 points, so a 0.40 carat diamond can also be defined as “40 points”.
Generally speaking, the heavier a diamond, the higher its price, but PAY ATTENTION: cost does not increase in a linear and proportional way, but it increases exponentially. There are some “steps” (which are usually equivalent to round figures), after which the price increases significantly.
Another important piece of information is that although the carat is a diamond’s unit of weight, it does not necessarily reflect the size we see. Most people believe that many carats are equivalent to a big diamond, however carats are not the only factor determining the way a diamond appears: cut and proportions are fundamental! If a diamond is poorly cut , for example, with a too deep pavilion, it will hide its weight at the bottom, revealing a small crown and poorly reflecting light. Therefore, this diamond will appear small in proportion to its weight.
On the contrary, there are some cuts and shapes that make a gem appear larger, for example the oval-shaped brilliant cut, whose elongated line gives apparently larger dimensions than a round-shaped brilliant cut.
Credits: www.levyjewelers.com
TIPS FOR SAVING
- Assuming we are facing two diamonds of identical quality (in terms of purity, color and cut), but weighing slightly different carats, we will notice significant price differences if the weight of the first diamond exceeds a certain limit. For example, a 1 ct diamond can really cost a lot more than a diamond weighing 0.90 ct. In fact, there are “steps” over which prices of diamonds rise enormously (in general, as above explained, this happens with round figures such as 0.50 ct, 1 ct and so on). Therefore, having the same quality, you can save a fair amount of money without sacrificing the beauty of the gem simply purchasing a diamond with a carat weight slightly below the “step”. Once the 0.90 ct stone is mounted, human eyes will not be able to distinguish it from the 1.00 ct gem. This trick will allow you to save money and make a good impression.
- If you love the solitaire ring, but can’t afford an important carat weight, you might consider a small central stone surrounded by a row of small pavé diamonds (halo). You will get the same sparkle as a large stone, at a lower price.
- Although you wish to buy a diamond of considerable size, I strongly recommend to avoid the purchase of a diamond with a large table and a shallow pavilion: the gem will certainly appear larger, but the sparkle and refraction will be mediocre due to the poor cut. Without a doubt, it is better to privilege quality and a good category cut.
2°_ CLARITY
During the crystallization process (which takes place at very high temperatures and under a lot of pressure), some tiny minerals or crystals might remain trapped into the stone.
The word “clarity” indicates to what extent the diamond is free of (external) imperfections or (internal) inclusions under a 10x magnifying glass analysis. The number, type, size and position of these possible inclusions and / or imperfections are examined. The presence of these characteristics can affect the appearance of a diamond.
The fewer inclusions the diamond has, the higher its value. The above said, in the jewelry world it is customary to employ diamonds whose imperfections are invisible to the naked eye.
Obviously, flawless diamonds do exist, but they are the rarest stones you can imagine and, needless to say, they are extremely precious.
The worldwide accepted diamonds clarity classification has been drawn up by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and includes the following categories:
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
FL-IF (maximum clarity = free from inclusions) – less than 1% of the mined diamonds belongs to this category
VVS1 – VVS2 (very very small inclusions, difficult to detect at 10x)
VS1 – VS2 (very small inclusions difficult to detect at 10x = medium clarity level)
SI1 – SI2 – SI3 (small inclusions easily visible with 10x magnifying glass = low clarity level)
When buying a diamond, clarity is very important as any imperfection could compromise the brightness of the stone. As a general rule, it is advisable to choose a diamond whose clarity level is not lower than VS1 – VS2.
TIPS FOR SAVING
From my point of view, this C has a deep symbolic value because for many people it represents pure, perfect, flawless love. However I believe that this symbolic value is over-estimated, not only because FL diamonds are so rare that a professional jeweler might not be able to see one in his entire professional career, but also because the human eye (especially if inexperienced) will never notice the difference between a totally pure diamond and another diamond with very small inclusions. Unless you’ve chosen an emerald-cut diamond (where inclusions might be more visible under the long rectangular facets, opposite to the small facets of a brilliant cut), ask yourself whether it’s really worth spending a fortune on something you can’t see.
Basically: taking into consideration that most likely no one will ever request you to show the diamond clarity certificate, it is not necessary to spend a fortune, then fall in bankruptcy.
Chose a gemstone with at least a VS1-VS2 clarity grade (with imperfections / inclusions invisible to the naked eye). This trick will help you to save on clarity grade, still buying a good gemstone, and perhaps move part of your budget towards another “C”. Your fiancée will be happy and so will your wallet.
Last, I would like to point out that no diamond is the same as another. It is practically impossible to find two diamonds having the same carat weight, the same cut and color degree, the same type and size of imperfections / inclusions, arranged in the same position. These imperfections can be compared to human fingerprints because they make each diamond a unique and extraordinary gift from our Planet.
I understand that most people hope to buy a stone as free from inclusions as possible, however in my opinion, the inclusions and imperfections give a particular “personality” to the stone, they make it so special, just like the person who will wear it.
3°- COLOR
In the jewelry industry, when we talk about the diamonds color, we are actually referring to the absence of color. In fact, while diamonds are commonly described as “white”, it would be more appropriate to define them as “colorless”.
The more a diamond is devoid of color, the more valuable it is and, therefore, more expensive.
The internationally accepted scale for the evaluation of diamond color is again coming from GIA:
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
D exceptional white +
E exceptional white
F extra white +
G extra white
H white
I-J slightly tinted white
K-L colorful white
M, N-O, P-R, S-Z colorful
This scale identifies the different shades using the alphabet letters, starting from D (used for absolutely colorless diamonds) and ending with Z (for diamonds with a clear yellowish tone).
The most common colors in jewelry are F (extra superior white), G (extra white) and H (white).
If you want to buy a colorless diamond, I recommend you to avoid stones whose valuation falls below the letter H.
In addition to the colorless ones, colored diamonds are also mined. They are called “Fancy” and have a separate classification. If the colorless diamond is the most extraordinary of gems, Fancy diamonds are a rarity: they are just 0.01% of all the mined diamonds. They are true miracles of nature and, as such, are also incredibly expensive.
Among the colored diamonds, the “less rare” appear in shades of yellow and brownish (evocatively called “champagne” or “cognac”). Then diamonds can also be pink, blue, green, orange, black and red!
TIPS FOR SAVING
If you want a colorless diamond, keep in mind that the color of the metal where the gem will be set usually plays a key role. Therefore, a diamond with a noticeable yellowish tinge will turn out even more yellowish on a yellow gold setting, while a white gold or platinum setting could help the diamond appear colorless (but remember that starting from grade J, K or L, the contrast between white metal and yellowish tinge of the diamond begins to be noticed).
Rose gold provides a nice contrast with D-H diamonds and gives a faint appearance to diamonds below M grade.
In addition to this evaluation criterion, it is essential to keep in mind your skin tone! Experiment and wear different rings under different lights, choose what looks beautiful on YOUR hand.
You may also find out that you prefer diamonds which occupy a lower position on the GIA color grade (for example a J or a K) because they have a “warmer” hue. Colorless diamonds are rarer and therefore more expensive, but they may not be your favorite.
4°_ CUT
Although in recent times the trend of mounting rough stones is emerging, majority of jewelers still use cut stones to enhance the beauty of their creations.
Cut (which should not be confused with shape!) refers to the proportions and symmetry of a diamond. Cut is the only parameter that requires human intervention and mainly influence the appearance of a diamond. Cut determines the way light moves inside the diamond, the way it is reflected and influences the perception of the diamond’s real size.
If a diamond is cut with the right proportions, light returns upwards and leaves the table; if it is cut shallowly, light escapes from the pavilion downwards; finally, if it the pavilion is too deep, light comes out laterally.
Credits: yourdiamondteacher.com
This is the reason why cut is the essential feature to enhance the reflection of light and diamond’s brilliance and luminosity.
The quality of cut has been defined by GIA according to this evaluation scale:
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
Usually after the cutting process, part of the rough stone gets wasted. For this reason a good cutter is expected to have skills and mastery in order to limit the loss and, at the same time, emphasize the beauty of the gemstone. Cut is a mix of art and science and the better the cut, the better the diamond brilliance.
In addition to the above explained 4 Cs, there is an unofficial, but extremely important fifth C:
THE CERTIFICATION
Diamonds of 1 ct weight and above should be accompanied by a certificate drawn up by an independent gemological association and must include all those data related to the 4Cs and, possibly, the diamond’s origin. Basically, the certificate is used to verify the authentic value of the diamond you are buying. Furthermore, it must clarify whether the gemstone has been artificially treated to improve its color and / or clarity.
Make sure it is delivered to you as you must know the gem you are buying.
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
The certification must be objective and accurate, this is why some experts call it “the 5 C”.
If one day you will be compelled to sell your jewel, the certification of an independent and recognized institute will certainly be useful to you.
The main internationally accredited institutes are:
- GIA (Gemological Institute of America): they “invented” the 4Cs evaluation tables used internationally and it is a non-profit institution that cares about research and education. It does not buy nor sell diamonds. It is a guiding light for all jewelry experts;
- IGI (International Gemological Institute);
- HRD Antwerp (based in Antwerp, Belgium).
The certificate of authenticity and guarantee is delivered by all the most important brands in the world. Some companies also provide certifications for diamonds below 1ct carat weight.
In the end, I would like to express my last thought: studying the 4Cs is very important, but it doesn’t have to be too binding, so don’t go crazy. None of your friends will ever request you to show the grading certificate or to display the gem under a magnifying glass! Buy a stone that makes you vibrate, that gives you emotions, that looks beautiful on your hand and with your skin tone.
Rely on a trusted jeweler and on brands whose trustworthiness and quality are well known. Don’t be in a hurry and pay attention to your feelings!
Sources:
www.gia.com
4cs.gia.edu
www.theknot.com
www.focus.it
www.matrimonio.it