Credits: www.thejewelleryeditor.com
The cut is one of the 4Cs, i.e. one of the four principles used to determine the value of a diamond. The cut is the only parameter in which human intervention is required and is undoubtedly the essential feature to enhance the reflection of light and diamond brilliance.
The cut type determines the quantity and type of facets and, consequently, the way light enters into the gem and is reflected. Every cut has been carefully studied in order to maximize a diamond’s ability to sparkle.
The quality of the cut has been defined by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) according to this evaluation scale:
Credits: 4cs.gia.edu
During the cutting process, usually part of the rough stone gets wasted. Therefore a good cutter is expected to study the rough stone first of all, in order to limit the loss and, at the same time, emphasize the beauty of the gemstone.
Cut is a mix of art and science: the better the cut, the better the diamond sparkle.
A diamond can appear different depending on the various light conditions to which it is exposed. The reason lies in its facets, which act as mirrors and reflect their surroundings. Any movement causes light reflection from one facet to another and produces magnetic flashes of light and color. If you buy a diamond, remember to observe it under different types of light (soft, daylight, etc.)
There are mainly four cut types:
1- BRILLIANT
It is the most famous cut due to the incomparable sparkle of the diamond, but it is very popular also for other gems.
The brilliant cut is made of 57 facets (33 in the upper part consisting of table + crown, and 24 in the pavilion), or 58 facets, in the event that the apex is cut with a small “lower table” in lieu of the typical tip.
Credits: www.capetowndiamondmuseum.org
Table: flat surface on top of the diamond.
Crown: upper part of a diamond, between the table and the girdle.
Girdle: it is the circumference of the diamond, its maximum width. It is the meeting point between crown and pavilion. Although it is faceted, it is common practice not to include the number of its facets in the total count.
Facets: flat surface formed by the cut. Facets have different shapes depending on their position and the type of cut, in any case their purpose is always to reflect the light in the best possible way.
Pavilion: lower part of a diamond, which starts at the girdle and reaches the culet.
Culet: lower end of the gem (pointed, most of the times).
This cut is designed to maximize sparkle and minimize the presence of inclusions, however it suffers a noticeable weight loss during the process.
Credits: www.jamesallen.com
The most loved shape is the round one, but here are some common and wonderful fancy shapes derived from the round one: oval, pear, cushion, marquise and heart, of which we will discuss in a separate article.
All cuts that do not belong to the “round brilliant” category are generically called “FANCY”.
2- STEP CUT
Usually rectangular or square shaped, this cut is characterized by rows of elongated and rectangular facets arranged in steps on the sides. These elongated facets make the presence of inclusions more visible, therefore this cut is recommended for diamonds with high clarity level.
The most popular step cuts are: emerald, baguette, carré.
The step cut gives a distinguished and noble appearance, and it was very popular in the art-deco period.
Jay-Z gifted Beyonce with this breathtaking bauble designed by Lorraine Schwartz.
Credits: photo.voici.fr
Wonderful bling featuring an emerald cut diamond, by Jean Dousset, which Eva Longoria received from her second husband Tony Parker.
Credits: photo.voici.fr
3- MIXED CUTS
This cut combines the characteristics of the brilliant cut and the step cut. The most common mixed cuts are Princess and Radiant, both having a predominant square shape.
Credits: www.lagioielleria.it
Credits: Stephanie Gottlieb Instagram
4- ROSE CUT
This cut dates back to the 1500s, but it is making a strong comeback as it gives a discreet light and very vintage vibes.
It recalls a cabochon cut (of which, according to some, it is its natural development), but instead of being round and smooth, it has 24 triangular facets and a flat base.
The “rosette” cut has a smaller number of facets.
The loss of rough stone is greatly reduced with this cut, and some cutters prefer to work on two rose cut diamonds rather than one brilliant cut diamond.
Credits: www.gembreakfast.com
Credits: www.apresjewelry.com Credits: www.apresjewelry.com
The rose-cut diamond engagement ring ring Jennifer Aniston received from her second husband Justin Theroux. Credits: debebians.com
Camila Alves with husband Matthew McConaughey and (on the right) a detail of her delicate engagement ring.
Credits: www.eonline.com
A close up of the stunning ring designed by Irene Neuwirth which Charlie McDowell proposed with to Lily Collins.
Credits: Lily Collins Instagram / www.dailymailcom.uk
Other remarkable cuts are:
– CABOCHON
This word derives from the French “caboche” (head), which in turn derives from the Latin “caput”. Therefore this cut clearly provides a convex, rounded and very smooth shape, totally devoid of facets. It is a truly ancient cut, which was in vogue until the fifteenth century, when the master cutters began to offer more multifaceted cuts. It suits very well with colored gems, but it is not recommended for gems whose inclusions or cracks reach the surface because during the cutting process, the latter could cause the stone to break.
Credits: Martin Katz Paraiba / www.katerinaperez.com Credits: www.bluenile.com
– ASSCHER
It shows cut corners, step facets, small square-shaped table. It offers a magnificent sparkle, greater than the emerald cut, however it might show inclusions if the stone has SI1 or SI2 clarity grade.
So modern, so much allure.
Credits: www.brilliantearth.com Credits: www.brilliantearth.com
Further to the above mentioned cuts, there are some other cuts, sophisticated but unfortunately not popular in Italy, so I believe it is worth to show them:
– ASHOKA
It has a very ancient history and owes its name to an Indian warrior, Ashoka Maurya, who later became emperor.
This is a modified cushion cut, rectangular in shape, with rounded corners. The modern version of this cut was introduced in 1999 by the legendary jeweler William Goldberg, who perfected and patented it. It is available only in William Goldberg boutiques or in its partners’.
Ashoka cut diamonds are quite rare because this cut requires a lot of skill and involves a rather large and essentially pure rough diamond (at least 3 cts). Less than 10% of the diamonds mined each year possess the suitable qualities in order to be cut in Ashoka.
An Ashoka cut diamond can appear bigger that a brilliant cut diamond, despite having the same carat weight.
Credits: www.kwiat.com Credits: www.www.ashokadiamond.com Credits: www.ashokadiamond by William Goldberg
Reese Whiterspoon’s super elegant bling, which is a gift from her second husband Jim Toth.,
Credits: David Livingstone / www.marthastewart.com
PORTAIT
This is a cut of ancient Indian origins. It is very rare and is characterized by a diamond cut so thin that it resembles the glass plate used in photo frames. Not surprisingly, this cut was used for jewels that housed a small miniature portrait.
It is an example of exceptional craftsmanship and requires cutter’s great skill.
This cut is mainly used for diamonds, but of course it can also be adapted to other stones.
The gem has an extended table (which requires a high purity diamond), surrounded by thin facets and gives the jewel a delicate, crystalline and very precious appearance.
It is an elegant, sober, exquisite cut. It’s making a comeback and you will hear a lot about it…
Credits: Eva Fehren The Eclat / jewelryconnoisseur.net Credits: www.1stdibs.com
Credits: A customizable ring by Kelty Pelechytik. / www.nytimes.com
OLD EUROPEAN
It is an ancient round cut, with discreet brilliance and wider facets that give a floral appearance. Since it was hand-cut, it is very rare and precious nowadays.
Face up, diamonds might appear 2 grades whiter than their actual GIA grade.
Credits: © EraGem Jewelry / eragem.com
– OLD MINE CUT
It is an ancient cut and refers to diamonds cut prior to 1890. Shape can change from stone to stone, however the most popular was rounded square. For this reason, this cut can be considered as the “ancestor” of the cushion shape.
This cut has a small table and a large apex and since the diamonds were cut by hand, their look was very natural.
Credits: www.diamonds.pro
Finally, I would like to dedicate a few words to the BRIOLETTE cut. Although this cut is more suitable for earrings, necklaces and tiaras due to its “chandelier” effect, it is so beautiful that I am happy to tell you something.
It is a very ancient cut, probably born in India, appreciated during the Victorian period, but it seems that in the 17th century already the famous merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier had sold two briolette-cut diamonds to King Louis XIV of France.
This cut fits perfectly with diamonds and colored gems and has the shape of a multi-faceted drop. The stone has no table, nor crown nor pavilion, but only several triangular facets. There is no specific rule that indicates the number of facets, so same is determined simply by the size of the stone. Therefore the more facets you have, the sparklier the gemstone will appear. The only recommendation is that the cut is symmetrical and that the gem has a high clarity grade.
Credits: www.loosegrowndiamond.com
Credits: www.loosegrowndiamond.com
The obvious advantage is that light enters from any direction and all facets reflect it. The beauty of the gem is visible from every angle, in a single glance.
It is possible that the tip has a small hole, created specifically so that a chain can pass through, or a hook to hang the gemstone.
Since it is not protected by metal or by prongs, it is preferable that only a hard and strong gemstone is chosen for this cut.
Briolette-cut diamonds are rare and expensive and the absence of protection makes them unsuitable for daily wear.
Credits: www.1stdibs.com Credits: www.1stdibs.com
To conclude, the quality of the cut is fundamental and the way diamond’s facets interact with light depends on it. Diamonds cut in the same style and in the same shape can however vary in the size of the table, in the thickness of the girdle, in the symmetry or in the polishing. These characteristics have a very important impact on the appearance of the diamond and its quality.
Then a well-cut diamond will appear larger than a badly cut one, even if the latter has greater carat weight; if the cut quality is mediocre, even the most beautiful diamond may appear insignificant. I recommend: do not skimp on the cut quality!
Get in touch with a good jeweler or choose a well-known and renowned brand.
Sources:
www.brides.com
www.ringconcierge.com
www.tiffany.com
www.langantiques.com
www.diamondsourceva.com
www.candere.com
www.loosegrowndiamond.com