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We tend to confuse shape and cut and sometimes people erroneously say: “I bought a heart-cut diamond ring”, or: “I like brilliants!”
To be precise, cut refers to the proportions, dimensions, facets of a diamond and the way they interact with light, while shape refers to the geometric appearance and contour of the gemstone when viewed face up.
Anybody can discern the outline of a diamond, on the contrary it takes an experienced eye to determine its cut because you have to notice type and number of facets, proportions and brightness.
Undoubtedly, by far the most popular shape is the round one, however you can enjoy several additional shapes (called “fancy”): oval, pear, marquise, rectangular, square and heart. To make a long story short, there are two categories of shapes: the round one and the fancy one, which includes all shapes except the round.
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Each shape evokes particular styles and characters, so let’s see them together:
Round (brilliant cut)
It is the traditional shape, the most loved and the most wanted. It has a timeless style.
The reason for this success is due to the 57 facets, which create an intense and breathtaking sparkle.
Miranda Kerr is wearing the dazzling engagement ring she received from her second husband Evan Spiegel.
Credits: Miranda Kerr Instagram / www.graziamagazine.com
Mila Kunis is seen wearing the Tiffany engagement ring, gifted by her husband Ashton Kutcher.
Credits: www.elle.com
Marquise (also called “navette”)
This shape, reminiscent of a small boat, is oval and elongated, with a wide central part, curved sides and pointed ends. Since the points are the most delicate and fragile parts, they must be protected by corner prongs.
It has the standard number of facets (i.e. 57, like the round shape).
This shape boasts an interesting historical heritage: according to legend, King Louis XV of France called his court cutter and commissioned a diamond whose shape should resemble the perfect mouth of the Marquise de Pompadour, his well-known lover.
It is very glamorous and ideal for short fingers, as it gives the illusion of flattering fingers.
Two pictures of Catherine Zeta Jones and her beautiful vintage engagement ring designed by Fred Leighton. She was gifted this ring by her husband Michael Douglas. The jewel is composed of a 10 ct marquise diamond surrounded by 28 small diamonds, on an east-west setting.
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Jodie Turner-Smith with her husband Joshua Jackson. A close-up of Jodie’s hand wearing her stunning ring.
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Oval
The oval shape belongs to the big family of brilliant cuts. It is a combination of the round shape and the marquise shape and gives the illusion of being larger than a round shaped diamond, same carat weight.
In addition, its elongated line makes the hand appear more tapered.
Definitely and remarkably sophisticated.
Ryan Reynolds has proposed to Blake Lively with this spectacular ring designed by Lorraine Schwartz.
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Justin Bieber has gifted Hailey Baldwin with this enormous diamond ring designed by Solow & Co.
Credits: Hailey Bieber Instagram / www.modernwedding.com.au
Steve Kazee’s romantic proposal to beautiful Jenna Dewan was accompanied by this breath-taking ring designed by Ba You With Love, and featuring an oval-shaped diamond surrouned by two demi-halos.
Credits: Steve Kazee Instagram / www.popsugar.com
Pear (also called “teardrop”)
This is another shape obtained by the mix between round and marquise shapes. It counts 71 facets and is very suitable for earrings and pendants, however it is also very popular for rings.
Just like for heart shape, symmetry must be absolutely perfect.
Like the oval and marquise shapes, the pear shape gives a discreet lengthening effect to fingers, especially when the point is facing the nail.
A pear shaped diamond is truly stunning when surrounded by a halo of diamonds.
Katherine Heigl with her gorgeous engagement ring gifted by husband Josh Kelley.
Credits: Katherine Heigl Instagram / www.engagementringbible.com
This was the engagement announcement of Margot Robbie and Tom Ackerley.
Credits: Margot Robbie Instagram / www.vogue.com
Following the proposal with this breathtaking 9 ct diamond ring designed by Ruser, Mia Farrow and Frank Sinatra tied the knot in 1966.
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Heart
This brilliant cut, which is a modification of the pear shape, is widely used for jewels that focus on romance.
It has 59 facets and requires a great deal of expertise. Symmetry is key: it is imperative that the two halves are perfectly identical and that the wings (i.e. two sides curving towards the tip) have a slightly rounded shape.
The origin of this shape is uncertain, some people believe it comes from India.
Lady Gaga is wearing the romantic ring gifted by then fiancé Taylor Kinney.
Credits: Lady Gaga Instagram / www.vogue.it
During a romantic getaway to Paris, Mod Sun proposed to Avril Lavigne with this gorgeous ring.
Credits: Avril Lavigne Instagram / www.dailymail.co.uk
Rectangular (or square) emerald
Typical step cut, it owes its name to the gem for which it was invented.
It appears rectangular (or square, sometimes), but it is actually octagonal since its edges are cut. The diamond features a wide table and long parallel facets in the pavilion that create an optical appearance and make it look like a hall of mirrors.
It is sought-after for the stately and elegant appearance and it’s the perfect choice for the enthusiasts of Art-Deco style.
Due to its open table and long facets, it’s ideal to highlight the diamond clarity (attention: it does not mask any inclusions, therefore it is not recommended for diamonds whose clarity grade is below the VS2).
George Clooney stayed on his knee for 20 minutes holding this stunning ring in his hand, until Amal Alamuddin finally accepted his proposal.
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Liv Tyler was used to wearing this elegant engagement ring during her romance with David Gardner.
Credits: Credits: Liv Tyler Instagram / www.engagementringbible.com
Princess (square or rectangular)
It belongs to the mixed cut family as it combines the characteristics of the brilliant cut (in the crown) with the step cut (in the pavilion).
Its profile looks like an inverted pyramid with pointed corners, which must always be protected by prongs in order to prevent them from chipping.
It is very populare in the U.S.A. because fire and scintillation are extraordinary, therefore inclusions are hidden rather well.
It is characterized by an imposing presence and by a distinct and contemporary style.
Super top Emily Ratajkowski and her former husband Sebastian Bear-McClard have taken part in the design process of this engagement ring, which has been created by designer Alison Chemla (from the brand Alison Lou), after the couple’s marriage. The jewel consists of a princess cut diamond and a pear shaped diamond.
Credits: Emrata Instagram / www.theadventurine.com
Cushion
It belongs to the brilliant cut and until the early years of 20th century, this was the most loved shape. It has made a comeback in recent years, due to its soft line.
One of the most famous diamonds in the world, the celebrated Hope of 45.54 cts, is precisely in cushion shape.
You can have different standards, according to personal tastes, so you can have a soft square, or a more elongated shape, but always with rounded corners and larger facets to increase brilliance.
It has typical excellent fire.
The modern cushion cut is called “Cushion Modified Brilliant” and has an extra row of facets, while the Cushion Brilliant has wider facets, but fewer and it shines like the round brilliant cut.
It’s the modern variations of the Old Mine Cut.
Love between Chrissy Teigen and John Legend has been sealed by this elegant cushion shaped diamond ring.
Credits: Chrissy Teigen Instagram / www.engagementringbible.com
The famous ring designed by Prince Harry for Meghan Markle has three diamonds: the central one is cushion shaped, and the two side stones – which come from Lady Diana’s private collection – are round shaped.
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Triangular (also called “trillion”)
It is a very original triangular shape, often used as a contour stone in jewels whose central gem is square. It shows a young and modern appeal when set as solitaire.
Credits: The Petite 4-Prong Solitaire Trillion engagement ring / nl.vrai.com
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Kite
If the trillion is for original people, the kite shape is for those who don’t want to go unnoticed! The youngest, most eccentric and innovative designers choose it for their solitaires.
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Credits: Ashley Zhang / www.naturaldiamonds.com
… and now, some frequently asked questions:
Can the diamond shape determine its sparkle?
Certainly yes, each shape counts a certain number of facets, which defines how the light travels across the gemstone and the way same is reflected.
Can the shape of a diamond have a connection with the clarity grade?
Yes, because some fancy shapes require a high clarity grade in order to enhance the sparkle of the diamond, for example the step cut rectangular shape.
Can the shape of a diamond affect the final price?
Yes, in relation to the market demand, but also taking into consideration the amount of raw stone lost during the cutting process. So, for example, the round shape is usually expensive because it is highly demanded and because a lot of material is lost during the manufacturing process.
The cushion or rectangular shapes use a large part of the rough stone, therefore they are a little more affordable.
Dear Friends, which is your favourite shape? Write me!
Sources:
www.bluenile.com
www.brilliantearth.com
www.tiffany.com