March birthstone: aquamarine

Credits: shineofdiamond.com 

 

We want to celebrate the first month of spring diving into crystal clear waters and enjoying the sensational colors of aquamarine!

Its oceanic blue color and ethereal clarity make it a  special gem, which you will love for years to come.

If you’re looking for something as elegant as diamond, but a little more colorful, the cool vibes of aquamarine might be right for you.

Let’s discover the features of this beautiful gemstone!

Credits: fentonand.com

What is aquamarine?

Aquamarine is a variety of beryl, like emerald and morganite. 

Its blue-green color depends on the presence of iron impurities inside it, which can make it vary from pale green to bright green, from light blue to intense blue.

A beginner could mistake this gem for a pale sapphire, or a topaz, but the trained eye can recognize aquamarine by the two shades which appear when you move the angle you look from.

Credits: blog.jamesallen.com

 

Aquamarine has the power to evoke the clarity and serenity of the sea, in fact its singular name derives from the Latin aqua marinus, which means “sea water”, referring of course to its extraordinary color and incredible clarity.

 

Stories and legends

It is common opinion that Ancient Rome fishermen have been the first ones to call this gem “aqua marinus” and to be grateful for the abundant peaches. 

The first recorded trace about aquamarine appeared in the 1st century AD in a work by Pliny the Elder, this is why it is believed that ancient Romans named this gem as we still know it today.

Due to its transparency and blue color that immediately recall the sea, ancient sailors believed in the legend according which aquamarine was “the stone of mermaids”, within whose chest it was formed. Sailors were used to carry one with them to protect themselves against the dangers of the sea.

Roman ring with an aquamarine intaglio portrait of Faustina, daughter of di Marcus Aurelius. Credits: Christies.com_skyjems.ca

 

For approximately 3000 years, aquamarine has been used as a jewel and as a protective talisman against evil forces. 

According to the ancient Egyptians and Sumerians it was a symbol of happiness, which had the property of giving eternal youth. Probably due to these beliefs aquamarines used to accompany the deceased on their journey to the afterlife and were part of the grave goods of ancient civilizations.

People used to give special healing powers to gemstones, especially in the Middle Ages. In particular, in the 12th – 13th century, it was believed that aquamarine had properties to protect against poisoning and was used as an antidote, becoming quite popular among the nobles, who often kept one rough crystal close at hand.

Origins

You can find aquamarines in Nigeria, Mozambique, Afghanistan, Pakistan, China, India, Norway and Russia, but the best specimens are mined in Brazil.

Knowing the provenance of a gem is interesting, but this is not a crucial factor when defining its value. Some mines are considered prestigious because high quality stones are extracted there, but please note that a gem should not be valued as fine just because it comes from one of these mines.

Rough aquamarine. Credits: www.gia.edu/aquamarine

Symbolism and interesting facts 

With its soft and transparent colours, this wonder of nature has always been associated with calm and serenity of the sea. In the past people also believed it could give courage, happiness and clarity of thought to the wearer. 

The Roman and Greek sailors’ feeling of protection from adverse events still exists today, so much so that many people think aquamarine can bring good health, calm and – by extension – stability in a romantic relationship, which perhaps explains why this gem is often chosen for love rings.

Another oddity: in the past, aquamarine was used as a kind of “barometer” of the atmospheric conditions and even of its owner’s mood: for example, if the gemstone became cloudy and greenish, then it was believed that a storm was invariably on the horizon; if the gem became as blue as the sky, it meant that, alas, the owner was in a really bad mood!

 

Anniversary

Traditionally an aquamarine jewel is the perfect gift for the 19th wedding anniversary.

Credits: Giacomo Loppoli Instagram_mixed cut green aquamarine, Nigerian origins, and kite and square cut extra white diamonds.         

 

The Mohs scale

As a member of the beryl family, aquamarine is positioned between the 7.5 – 8 rate on the Mohs scale (which we have already explained here).

Credits: blog.jamesallen.com

Main factors

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) correctly states that the finest aquamarines are like a marriage of color and clarity.

Indeed, the most appreciated characteristics are the poetic color and the incredible clarity which, combined with the often remarkable size when cut, make aquamarine an extraordinary gem.

Generally speaking, larger specimens are not cut into several small stones, on the contrary they are mounted in all their spectacular size on high jewelry necklaces or cocktail rings.

Color

When investing money in a piece of aquamarine jewelry, color is certainly the key factor to care for. Aquamarine covers an array of pastel colors, ranging from pale blue to dark/light blue, and blue-green of moderate intensity, which is the most prized color. 

The most beautiful specimens show uniform shade without areas of color.

The gem’s typical blue color is due to the presence of iron in its chemical structure.

Aquamarine is a pleochroic gem, which means it is able to change color depending on the angle it is observed from, and this peculiarity is more clear in dark-toned stones.

Minou ring with aquamarine. Credits: www.damiani.com                                

Credits: The London Victorian Ring Co.                     

                 

 

Credits: blog.jamesallen.com

 

Clarity

One of aquamarine’s most inviting characteristics is its impeccable clarity. In fact, this stone is often extracted in pure or almost completely pure crystals. Collectors looking for transparency and limpidity love it very much.

  

Credits: Giacomo Loppoli Instagram_model MILANO with green aquamarine, Madagascar origins, and extra white diamonds.          

 

Cut

Aquamarine can be cut into almost any shape. Its transparency and typical light color influence the type of cut.

In order to accentuate brilliance and shine, the emerald cut is often preferred, but oval, round and heart brilliant cuts are also very common.

Credits: The London Victorian Ring Co.   

Credits: Kay Jewelers_www.theknot.com

Credits: Diamondère Adorna_www.theknot.com

 

Carat weight

Aquamarine is available in impressive sizes: some cut stones reach 20, 30 or even 100 carats! These exceptional specimens are usually set in cocktail rings, necklaces, earrings of high and very expensive jewelry.

Cut gems weighing more than 5 carats are generally dark in colour, while lower carats specimens, usually lighter in colour, are mostly used as side stones.

Big aquamarines are easily available, therefore usually price is not heavily influenced by the carat weight. It is quite common to mine aquamarines of considerable carat weight, ranging from 1 to 5 carats, therefore a size increase does not result in a significant price increase. A real jump in value and cost occurs, however, in specimens exceeding 5 carats.

Trilogy. Credits: www.giorgiovisconti.it  

 

Treatments

Since aquamarine is by nature characterized by an appreciable clarity, any treatment to which it may be subjected has the sole purpose of improving its color. When mined, aquamarine has a blue-green color and the heat treatment manages to decrease or even remove the green shade, providing the deep blue color we all love so much.

This treatment is permanent and is widely accepted in the industry. However, for sake of good order, a trusted jeweler should inform you of treatments, if any, at the moment of purchase.

Credits: assael.com 

Credits: Ashley Zhang_www.theknot.com

 

Care and cleaning

You can carry out at home a thorough but gentle cleaning of your aquamarine jewel. The procedure is the same you would adopt for your diamond jewelry: get a toothbrush with soft bristles, neutral soap and a bowl with warm water. If you decide to arrange yourself in the bathroom, remember to put the plug on the sink!

After washing, dry your jewelry with a very soft cloth.

If you wear your aquamarine ring every day, then I recommend you to book a thorough check-up by your trusted jeweler once or twice a year, in order to assess the health of prongs and to ensure that your precious aquamarine is always securely set in place.

Credits: www.rosecjewels.co.uk

 

Famous aquamarines

The most beautiful aquamarines mined in the last two hundred years come from Brazil. The bigger stone was mined in 1980 in Minas Gerais and measures 10,363 incredible carats! This exceptional stone was named Dom Pedro and is of course considered the largest aquamarine in the world. Since 2011 it is exhibited at the Smithsonian Institution National Museum of Natural History.

Dom Pedro. Credits: smithsonianmag.com 

 

In 1953, in honor of her coronation, Queen Elizabeth II received a parure made up of a necklace and earrings from the President of Brazil, Getúlio Dornelles Vargas. It is well known that it took a whole year to select the most suitable stones. However, this was only the first part of the gift: the second part, in fact, was made of a bracelet and a brooch, and it was given to the sovereign five years later, when the corresponding gems were found to complete the work. The Queen liked these gifts so much that she later commissioned a tiara to match the entire set.

The necklace worn with and without pendant. Credits: artemisiasroyaljewels.blogspot.com

Credits: royalcentral.co

 

Credits: artemisiasroyaljewels.blogspot.com          The tiara. Credits: artemisiasroyaljewels.blogspot.com

 

Still remaining within the British royal family, for her “something blue” on her wedding day, the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, was gifted by Prince Harry a wonderful cocktail ring taken from his late mother’s private collection. Princess Diana had commissioned the ring to Asprey jewelry house and the it features an eye-catching 30-carat aquamarine.

Credits: www.alfemminile.com  

Credits: www.myjewelcandy.com

Credits: www.vanityfair.it

 

To ask for his wonderful girlfriend actress Jessica Biel’s hand, singer and actor Justin Timberlake proposed with an impressive one-of-a-kind ring commissioned to the designer Leor Yerushalmi. The jewel is made of a central 6-carat diamond and two side small aquamarines (certainly to honor Jessica’s birth month) on a blackened platinum setting. So gorgeous!

 

  Credits: www.amica.it                                                        Credits: Christopher Peterson-Splash  News_www.glamour.com

 

Looking back again to last century, fantastic Lucille Ball ’s hand used to shine with a breathtaking 40-carat aquamarine ring gifted by her husband Desi Arnaz.

 

Credits: blog.jamesallen.com                                               Credits: it.quora.com

Credits: theadventurine.com

 

Also the U.S. First Lady Eleonor Roosevelt ’s jewelry box was no joke, since her husband President Franklin D. Roosevelt, returning from a trip to South America, came back home with an unbelievable 1,298-carat dark blue aquamarine, as a gift from Brazilian President Varga.

Credits: dales jewelers.com

 

Credits: fdr.artifacts.archives.gov

  

Credits: fdr.blogs.archives.gov                                Credits: fdr.artifacts.archives.gov  

 

And lastly, could the divine Elizabeth Taylor not own a gigantic aquamarine ring?

Jill Zarin’s hand wearing Elizabeth Taylor’s aquamarine ring. Credits: splash_www.dailymail.co.uk

 

Tips & FAQs

Is it true that aquamarine should not have inclusions?

Just like emerald and morganite, aquamarine is part of the beryl family. Despite the relatedness, visible inclusions are acceptable in emeralds, but not in aquamarines. An aquamarine with a milky appearance or with inclusions is considered less valuable.

What color varieties should I look for?

Aquamarine can have different shades, the most common shade is pastel blue and it has an affordable cost, while the most sought after shade has a saturated and vivid color.

That said, I believe you have to choose on the basis of your tastes and style! Aquamarines with calm blue shades are beautiful, as much as gems showing some green inside, or even those showing a deep and dramatic blue. Trust your tastes and only buy a gem that speaks to your heart.

Credits: Assael_www.mccaskillandcompany.com

 

Why in my ring doesn’t the color of small side aquamarines match with the color of central aquamarine?

The larger an aquamarine is, the more intense its color is. It is really difficult to find saturated color aquamarines below one carat weight. Generally, stones below 1 carat have a pale hue.

Credits: www.brilliantearth.com

 

Which metal goes best with aquamarine?

Aquamarine goes well with all metals, just keep in mind that some metals emphasize its color, while others contrast. For example, white gold, which is widely chosen for aquamarines, highlights cool blue tones, while yellow gold, which is warmer, brings balance and emphasizes green tones.

Credits: blog.jamesallen.com

Credits: blog.jamesallen.com

Credits: www.brilliantearth.com

 

What does the term “AAA” mean?

Sometimes some individual jewelry companies describe the quality grade of their gemstones with definitions such as A, AA or AAA. However, there are no standard classifications to identify the quality of aquamarines. 

Why does aquamarine cost so much more than a blue topaz?

Topaz is mined colorless and gets its blue color after an irradiation treatment. 

Aquamarine does not undergo treatments to acquire a color, but to improve the one it already has when mined. 

Furthermore, aquamarine is rarer in nature, especially if we consider intensely colored specimens.

  

Two rings with aquamarine and diamonds, in a white gold setting. Credits: Comete   

 

If I find a cheap aquamarine, can I trust and buy it? 

The most beautiful and largest aquamarines are rare and therefore expensive. It is unlikely that a high carat weight gem, with intense light blue-blue color and a strangely affordable prize is indeed an aquamarine.

Credits: www.tiffany.it  

 

Is aquamarine suitable for an engagement ring? 

Pros     The first advantage of aquamarine is certainly its wonderful color. You can consider it as a fresh and elegant alternative to the traditional diamond. 

Another important benefit is price, which is much lower than the cost of a same size diamond. If compared to a similar size diamond, aquamarine is very convenient, even when it comes in large carats. So you can buy a stone with a great aesthetic impact at a more favorable cost than what you would pay for a same size diamond.

  

Two rings with aquamarine and diamonds in a white gold setting. Credits: Miluna

 

And last, aquamarine is versatile: it offers a variety of blue-green shades and it appears wonderful no matter what cut style you chose.

Aquamarine looks stunning also on man rings. Credits: azeera_www.theknot.com   

 

Cons     Despite its 7.5 – 8 rate in the Mohs Scale, aquamarine may not be the right stone if you are looking for an engagement ring to wear on a daily basis for a lifetime. The idea of durability gets along well with diamond and its unparalleled hardness, but it is not the same for aquamarine, which may not withstand the damage caused by constant daily use.

In addition to being prone to chipping and scratching, aquamarine tends to get dirty quickly if worn every day. It requires frequent cleaning, so that light can be reflected at the best. 

Therefore, you can absolutely choose an aquamarine for your engagement ring, as long as you take the necessary precautions and are ready to give it frequent “maintenance services”.

Credits: Giacomo Loppoli Instagram_model ROMA with a green octagonal step cut aquamarine, Madagascar origins, and extra white diamonds.      

 

 

 In conclusion…

As a result of its fascinating legends, or its romantic and mysterious colour, aquamarine will always be one of the most evocative gems in the world.

Credits:  Jared_www.theknot.com 

 

It is perfect for earrings, necklaces and rings too as a side stone. However, if you are willing to proceed with caution and have your ring checked from time to time by your trusted jeweller, aquamarine looks magnificent in the central position of a ring, ready to capture everyone’s attention with its timeless and romantic beauty.

Credits: www.brilliantearth.com

  

Credits: Gioielli di Valenza, contrarié rings in white gold 18k, aquamarine and diamonds.  

  

Credits: Gioielli di Valenza, trilogy rings in white gold 18k, aquamarine and diamonds.                                       

Credits: Gioielli di Valenza, white gold 18k ring with aquamarine and diamonds forming two triangles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sources:

GIA – Gemological Institute of America

katerinaperez.com

www.brides.com

blog.jamesallen.com

shop.kenanddanadesign.com