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Before getting engaged, you might think that the choice of the ring is a matter of quick solution: a sparkling diamond, a pretty box and that’s it.
To tell the truth, as you begin the process of choosing the perfect ring, you will soon realize that there are numerous issues, big and small, that need your attention such as budget, stone, cut, shape, metal, etc. Evaluating the setting is certainly a crucial choice!
The setting is the structure on which the gem is mounted. Its primary purposes are to secure the gem to the ring, protect it from damage and emphasize its beauty.
Each type of setting offers a particular and different level of protection.
Furthermore, the type of setting and the metal strongly influence the aesthetics of the ring: think of how a classic ring with a round brilliant cut diamond mounted on a bezel setting immediately gets a fresh and modern look, or how a super trendy oval stone becomes more traditional when held by four prongs.
So, each stone must be set in some type of setting, of course, but the style you choose will impact the harmony of the entire ring, the appearance it gives to the hand and – a very important matter – how much the gem is secured in its location.
Choosing the right setting depends on the carat weight of the stone, its cut and shape, your personal tastes and, no doubt, your daily lifestyle.
Here below please find the most common types of settings:
PRONGS (with variations: trellis / basket / cathedral)
Credits: www.engagementringbible.com 6 prongs with rounded tips, credits: www.tiffany.com
Credits: www.brilliantearth.com 4 pointed prongs, credits: jeandousset.com
Despite the fluctuation of fashions, the solitaire with prongs remains one of the most popular settings of all times, thanks to its delicate and simple elegance, as well as the incredible ability to focus all attention on the gem, which is thus able to showcase all its beauty.
In this type of setting, the stone (generally the only one in the ring) is the absolute protagonist. It is stopped by claws called “prongs”, which secure it and make it visible from every angle and allow it to receive as much light as possible. This setting is a timeless classic with which virtually everyone identifies the most iconic engagement ring.
Prongs (whose visible tip can be rounded, pointed, V-shaped, flat or embellished) extend from the base upwards, bend and shape on the gem’s girdle – that is its outermost circumference – tightening and holding it firmly in its position.
In classic jewels, prongs are single and equidistant, but models with a stone stopped by pairs of prongs are also popular.
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Based on the gem carat, we can find settings with 3, 4, 6 or 8 prongs (the most popular models have 4 and 6). If you have to choose the number of prongs, take into consideration that the fewer there are, the more visible the gem will be (and the less metal you will have to pay), but at the same time, it will be a little less safe. On the other hand, if you opt for a 6-prong setting, the stone will undoubtedly be stationary in its place, but the amount of metal may slightly cover and hide it, especially if it is tiny.
If you choose a gem cut in heart or pear or marquise shape, it is essential that the tips are protected by V-shaped prongs. The same recommendation applies to the “edges” of emerald cut gems, which must be protected by flat prongs.
Credits: www.tiffany.com Credits: www.graff.com
The prongs setting is therefore the perfect combination of sparkle and safety. Thanks to the elevated position in which the gem is located, it guarantees the best return of light and, moreover, allows the observer to perfectly notice size and shape of the stone.
It might be a good idea to request platinum prongs (even if the rest of the ring is made of white gold) because same is more resistant than gold, so you can be sure that the gem will stay in place.
The prong setting can be “open”, that is to say without a bottom, allowing the gem to receive light from above, aside and below, or “closed”, when it hides the lower part of the stone, which can receive light only from above and aside.
Disadvantages: if the jewel is frequently worn, then prongs can wear, therefore I recommend to have them checked from time to time in order to avoid the risk of losing the gem. In addition, they might entangle in tissues.
Variations:
Trellis
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In this elegant variant, prongs interweave with each other, so that those securing the gem on the left side, actually start on the right hand side and curve under the stone. Conversely, those starting from the left side also curve under the stone and secure it on the right side. The obvious advantage of this setting is that it makes the design more sophisticated, accentuating the central stone, but above all it guarantees more “open” spaces, thus making the gemstone appear larger.
Basket
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In the more classic setting, prongs start from the metal band and rise upwards to accommodate the gem, while in this setting two horizontal circles are welded with the vertical prongs, creating a small basket inside which the stone is laid. The smaller circle is positioned just above the band and hosts the gem pavilion.
Despite the supplement of two horizontal circles, this setting allows a considerable amount of light to enter and illuminate the central gem, while ensuring great safety.
Compared to the traditional setting, here the stone “sits” lower, and for this reason it minimizes the risk of chipping or scratching. So if you are a clumsy type (and at the same time a classic solitaire lover), I would dare to say that this setting is just right for you.
Cathedral
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This setting is certainly one of the most sophisticated and is made of arched prongs that rise above the ring to support the gem, making it the point of absolute attraction. Not surprisingly, its arched structure evokes the architectural lines typical of cathedrals, from which it takes its name.
This setting is ideal if you want to highlight the central gem, for two reasons:
1_ it lifts the stone far above the finger (and it needs special attention to prevent the stone from getting caught on fabrics or colliding with surfaces),
2_the arches allow you to add extra details that enrich the design (for example, micropavé or carvings).
BEZEL
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Credits: VRAI the Signature Bezel / www.theknot.com Credits Ashley Zhang Jewelry / www.theknot.com
This setting, whose design looks very chic and contemporary, was already in vogue in the Middle Ages.
Most probably, it is the safest setting ever because a metal wire (usually golden) surrounds the gem’s girdle. In addition, by leaning slightly above the edge of the girdle, it holds the gem firmly and discreetly and prevents the risk of the fabrics getting hooked.
In addition to being very safe, this setting offers a clean line that makes the ring ideal to be worn daily, even by very active people or by those who use their hands a lot (for example, hairdressers, artists, etc.) and do not want to give up wearing jewels.
The only little drawback of this model is that the gem receives a lower amount of light if compared to the classic setting with prongs, however – if crafted properly – the bezel setting could make the gem appear larger.
Attention: keep in mind that in this setting (more than in others), the metal color is reflected in the stone, so it would be good to choose a metal whose hue is close to the gem’s (for example, platinum / white gold on a colorless diamond, rose gold on morganite, yellow gold on yellow topaz or yellow diamond, etc.) or on the contrary, you can pick a metal that emphasizes the gem (for example, yellow gold on emerald, white gold on aquamarine, etc.).
GYPSY
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Credits: www.bearbrooksbank.com Tiffany engagement rings for men offer several diamond cuts on a
gypsy setting, credits: www.ilsole24ore.com
Credits: www.whartongoldsmith.com
This setting is a variant of the bezel and has very ancient origins.
In order to create it, it is necessary to thicken the upper part of the ring so as to produce a conical cavity, inside which the gem is placed. The stone is completely surrounded by the metal and does not protrude. The metal is “pressed” and hammered around the perimeter of the gem to secure it firmly in its seat.
Since this setting allows light to enter only from above, it is not ideal for enhancing the brilliance of a gem (but if it is a diamond, then it rests assured it will shine anyway!), However we must consider that it offers excellent daily protection and great practicality.
The ring has a clean and solid shape, the aesthetic is minimalist and elegant. This setting is often proposed for wedding rings and, due to its sober appearance, it is also popular with men.
According to Rebecca Selva, Chief Creative Officer of Fred Leighton and Kwiat: “It dates back to antiquity and the Imperial Roman era. The affluent Romans wore beautiful gypsy-set rings. It’s been modern for thousands of years.” (source: www.naturaldiamonds.com)
This clean and smooth looking setting was also popular in the Victorian era because it represented a valid alternative to the floral and ornate style of that period, but also because it was the bearer of a hidden and very rebellious meaning for that time: it appears, in fact, that men and women wearing a gypsy-set ring on their left pinky finger wanted to point out that they were not interested in marriage!
The excellent level of protection of the gemstone and the discreet and “low profile” appearance make it a perfect setting to be worn every day and in almost any circumstance.
TENSION
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Credits: Ring Diamond Mirror / www.sebastianfrost.dk Credits: Ring Diamond Mirror Gold Navette Cut
Diamond / www.sebastianfrost.dk
Credits: www.walmart.ca Credits: Angelic Diamonds Round Diamond Engagement Ring /
www.brides.com
If you like to surprise people around you, this setting is the right one for you: the gem seems to be suspended in space and offers a formidable sparkle!
These surprising effects are obtained because the stone is held by the traction force, that is to say, by the tension springing from the two ends of the metal band, and pushing against the stone.
In addition to the excellent exposure to light, the scarcity of metal around the gem also allows easy cleaning. The above said, it must be pointed out that it is an unsuitable setting for those who plan to wear the ring every day or during manual works.
Caution:
1_ the design is made and adapted to the size of the gem, so it may be difficult, at a later stage, to widen or narrow the band;
2_ only particularly hard gems such as diamond, sapphire and ruby can withstand the necessary pressure to be held in place. We do not recommend this setting for other gemstones.
BAR
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The bar setting is used when 3 or more stones are placed next to each other and is somewhat reminiscent of the “channel” setting.
Basically, the stone is held in its position on the sides with two parallel and vertical metal bars. However, the setting does not only consist in “crushing” the stone between the two bars, but also includes a small groove, a kind of rut in the metal in which the gem’s girdle is inserted, for safety reasons.
The design is very contemporary and it allows the ring to have a smooth and discreet surface.
In addition, it is particularly impressive for princess cut gems (rectangular or square) because the stones are arranged tightly next to each other, with no gaps.
Although this setting is absolutely safe, I recommend that you book frequent checks with your trusted jeweler.
CHANNEL
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Credits: blog.brilliance.com Credits: www.bluenile.com
It is very similar to the bar setting, but in lieu of two bars for each stone, this setting has two parallel metal channels that hold a row of gems inside their seat.
A groove carved inside each channel ensures the girdle protection and allows the stones to sit inside, aligned and supported on all four sides. In this way, the risk of stones jumping out is avoided. With this setting, the surface of the ring is flat and smooth.
This setting is preferred for jewelry including small and numerous stones (usually 5 or 6) and is commonly chosen for wedding rings, but it is also sometimes seen in engagement rings and adds further sparkle to the center stone.
Sources:
www.theknot.com
www.engagementringbible.com
www.naturaldiamonds.com